Kyoto is Japan’s ancient capital. There is much to see and do: it’s got historical, cultural, natural, culinary, and modern treasures around every corner, and it can be totally overwhelming. We tried to choose a few must-sees and a few less-visited spots and squeeze in what we could in the time we had here. To avoid becoming just a guidebook, this post will be limited to the highlights!
Nijo-jo (castle) was built originally in 1603. It’s a great example of early Edo period design. The wall paintings by masters of the Kono school, and carvings inside the Ninomaru Palace are simply amazing. The building also features nightingale floors that creak in such a way that it sounds like birds, subtly warning occupants of intruders. The outer gardens are peaceful and masterfully laid out by the famous garden designer Kobori Enshu.
Kiyomizu Temple is made up of a number of separate buildings and areas. At the Kiyomizu-dera Zuigudou Tainai Meguri, you descend a set of stairs deep into the “womb.” Keeping your left hand on the beads along the wall, you continue until you see a big stone, which seems to be glowing and hovering above the ground. Touch the stone and turn it, focusing on a wish or desire. If it’s sincere, it will come true.
Kiyomizu-dera is also famous in determining matters of the heart at Jishu Shrine, where the god of love and matchmaking, Okuninushi no mikoto, resides. There are all sorts of love charms and prayer spots to choose from, as well as two stones about 30 feet apart that if you can walk the distance between them with your eyes closed, you are sure to be lucky in love.
The Zen temple Ginkakuji (est. 1482) is yet another World Cultural Heritage site. Even more special care than usual was taken here to bring each building and garden view into harmony with nature. There is some amazing art here too.
We never splurged for it, but Kyoto is supposed to be wonderful place for the splendid, seasonal kaiseki dining. We stuck to cheaper local basics, but had some yummy dinners. One kushikatsu (almost anything fried and skewered) place served us quail eggs, lotus root, mushrooms, pork, chicken, and even cream cheese (that dipped in marmelade rather than the standard sauce).
I need to get a map for the guidebook, but I do enjoy all the travels. Keep pulling me along. What’s the deal with Skype these days.