Language is an occasional barrier to getting the best eats in China, but we refuse to be deterred. We’ve developed some good strategies, and have been greatly enjoying the results. Last month in Pingyao we met a couple who told us about a cooking class they’d taken when they visited Yangshou. A guaranteed meal, and we would be able to see just what went in it! What could be better?

Someone from the school picked us up bright and early head to the market downtown. This is the main fresh market in town, and the one most people use. Jennifer (her English name), the young woman who would be teaching the afternoon class, pointed out various fruits, vegetables and spices, explaining what everything was as we walked. Some things were easily recognizable: big orange carrots, deep purple eggplant, long, slender cucumbers, Chinese cabbage and celery. Others required explanation. We were told that a long, light green, ridged vegetable was a loofah. Jennifer said that they could be eaten, or if they got over-ripe, dried and used to wash up the dishes. The winter melon was huge, about the diameter of a larger watermelon but several times longer. Bitter melon was smaller and light green. Pumpkins, corn and squash were just coming into season. There were countless varieties in the green leafy category, including an interesting “water spinach,” and barrels, buckets and bags of colorful spices. An entire aisle was devoted to garlic and spring onions.

Along one whole wall, vendors squatted on the cement floor over plastic basins filled with live water creatures. The proximity to the river means that these were primarily small frogs, crayfish, snails, eels and river fish. You could buy a whole mesh bag of froggies for next to nothing! Next to this section was the cooked meat and fowl: roasted, charred parts, beaks, feet, snouts, ears, mostly of pigs and ducks. I don’t think I’d be alone in the belief that Americans are lazy eaters. We generally don’t like to have to work at getting our food from plate to belly. We’d rather not have to even pick around bones, never mind gnaw, suck and spit pieces here and there to get through a dish. Chinese don’t mind these tougher textures and the techniques required to enjoy them. While we don’t want anything to remind us of what the animal looked like in life, Jennifer said her favorite snack was pig nose.

The center aisle held cages of live animals. There were lots of chickens, ducks and a few rabbits. There was only one of the special white chickens left that have black meat (good for ladies!?); we were told those go fast. Next to the freshly killed and strung up ducks that lined the back wall of the market in cement stalls were some animals most of us don’t like to associate with mealtime. Suffice it to say the barks and meows were as disturbing as seeing the carcass hanging there.

After there market it was back to the “classroom.” In a building with a covered patio in front, a few miles from town, was one big room with space for a dozen people or so, each with a little gas burner, cutting board, knives, spatula, chopsticks, wok, dishes, etc. The teacher ran through what to do first, making the dish herself and demonstrating techniques. Then she walked around while we put together each dish on our own. Most of the ingredients were measured out and set at each station. We had to cut, smash, chop, julienne, mix, season, and cook. There were 5 dishes total. Almost everything was done in a wok. The stuffed vegetables were steamed in a bamboo steamer all together, and finished as we wrapped up the last dish.

Dishes included Yangshou Eggplant (our favorite, with lots of garlic, ginger and chili paste), Beer Fish (a local speciality made with catfish), Chicken and Cashews, Bok Choy Garlic Stirfry, and vegetables stuffed with a minced pork filling. The stuffed squash blossom was best! It was a delicious feast, and we enjoyed it while chatting about travels and experiences in China with a small group of other international travelers. The school is a wonderful idea, especially for a farming community with so many fresh ingredients easily available. The program was started by an Australian woman who has retired to the village, and employs all local villagers to run things. The girls we talked to said they really enjoy giving the classes…a great way to practice English as well.