Crossing the equator for the first time this trip, we arrived in Bali, Indonesia, escaping the end of rainy season in Thailand. It was time to redeem a few more Marriott points, which made total relaxation simple. We spent a few days on the Tanjung Benoa peninsula in Nusa Dua, the more luxurious tourist area of the island. This designation, of course, means isolation from the “real Bali,” higher prices and less access to the information we wanted on how to continue traveling on a budget. Nonetheless, the beaches were pretty and there was enough to explore on foot to keep us busy while we were there.

There was a big temple high on a cliff overlooking the sea, a natural, protected area with a mesmerizing blowhole, and a fishing village at Benoa with the expected rhythm of daily life. We soon discovered that the language, Bhasa Indonesia, seems a bit easier to pick up, and we had fun practicing and making the transition from Thai. People are very friendly and welcoming, usually smiling and greeting you whether they are looking for further interaction or not. We spent several hours one afternoon talking philosophy with a local guy named Madee. He was a lover of peace, harmony and tolerance who believed that people who fight and live with angry hearts (he used the example of those in wild Papua) should be accepted as just in an undeveloped state of human nature. All others should be able to overcome any difference, if they are willing to truly listen to each other’s hearts. Even language should be no obstacle. His dream was to someday make a pilgrimage to Tibet.  Another type of pilgrimage is the relatively short trip to Bali for Australian surf-seekers.  We ran into plenty of people who seemed to be regulars.

Though Indonesia may be the world’s largest Muslim nation, Bali is mostly Hindu. Temples are noticeably different from elsewhere in Southeast Asia, with more stonework and gates, plus the ever-present parasol on a long pole. Black and white checkered fabric, and yellow or gold sashes are always present as well.  Morning, noon and night people weave little trays out of banana leaves and fill them with offerings. There is usually rice, flowers, something sweet and something savory. These are placed on alters outside temples, but also on the sidewalk in front of every shop and restaurant, on dashboards…pretty much everywhere really. We found ourselves having to watch out not to step on one. At some point they are all swept up and the process of decorating and laying them out with a blessing and some incense begins again.

Public transportation on Bali is conspicuously lacking. There’s lots of traffic around the capital Denpasar, and taxis get expensive. There are some shuttles between major cities, but limited to once or twice a day. We heard they had just begun operating a public bus on two routes in the east of the island. The fare was only 40 cents or so, so we decided to give it a try for our departure. It’s only been running for a couple of months, and there was not much promotion at the beginning, but people seem to be starting to catch on. When we found the stop in Nusa Dua there was an elementary school field trip that filled at least three buses. We were the only two people on the bus not on the trip. Kids took up every seat and most of the floor. The ride was comfortable, if loud and boisterous, and it was quite entertaining to watch the giggling group. We got off the bus in Sanur to a chorus of goodbyes from the kids, and used the phone gps to navigate toward the beach.

After looking at a few rooms we ended up in one of the rentals behind a Japanese restaurant on a quiet street, close to the beach and not too far from the main strip. They had a few bikes to borrow for free, and we made great use of those over the next few days, especially along the 4 kilometer seaside esplanade dotted with cafes and restaurants. We dined with our feet in the sand every night, looking out at the ocean.

It seems in Bali there is always a ceremony, and we came upon several in our wanderings. We never knew what was really going on, of course, and kept a respectful distance, but all involved lots of people in traditional dress in a procession down the street; slow, rhythmic music with flutes, drums and gongs; and a holy person at the destination; followed by sitting around, visiting and eating.

A bus ride to northeast to Padangbai showed us a bit more of the island, but we hope to see much more when we return. Next mode of transportation: fast boat to the Gilis.

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