Forewarned and a little nervous, we arrived in Agra by train after dark. Stories of scams, being overcharged and harassed abound: gem scams, fake marble souvenirs, aggressive vendors, unscrupulous drivers who just want to take you to shops, hotels or restaurants where they get a commission. As much as we wanted to see the Taj Mahal, we weren’t looking forward to the potential hassles. We had decided to stay away from the touristy Taj Ganj in favor of a couple of nights at Sai Homestay. One benefit of sticking to the tourist area is that everyone knows how to get there, but such positives are usually outweighed by the negatives.  Exiting the station, we were approached by Manish, a young autorickshaw driver. He admit he didn’t know the place we were trying to find, but said he knew the general area and was willing to give it a try. We were encouraged by the fair price we were able to negotiate, and the promise to drive slow since it was so cold.  After a fair amount of asking around, were able to arrive at the home.

Our room at Sai Homestay was big, clean and comfortable, on the second floor of a beautiful home with marble staircases and landings and lovely decor. Our bed had an extra fluffy blanket to battle the cold winter night, and WiFi, often hard to find in India. The lady of the house was gracious, and served us a hot cup of masala chai before we got settled in. We met her husband a bit later, when he returned home from doing business at the hotel they own in the tourist area. They explained they had decided to open their home to guests a few months ago after their two sons left home and her days got very quiet. She said she’s really been enjoying it so far, and that people who opt for a homestay environment were usually very open and kind. They have a simple menu, and a young man who does the cooking. It was very comfortable to spend a couple of days there.

We awoke to a freezing cold, foggy morning, and fortified ourselves with a light breakfast and a pot of tea before being picked up by Manish. Partly in gratitude, and partly to make our day easy, we had agreed to let him drive us around to the main tourist spots, avoiding having to renegotiate a fare with a new driver after each place. Usually we try to walk, but the driver strategy worked out for the best in Agra. On a good tip from the homestay owner, we head to Agra Fort first, since the fog would have prevented us from seeing the Taj early in the day.

The fort lies just a couple of miles from the Taj Mahal, around a bend in the Yamuna River. This red sandstone fortress complex stretches for almost two miles.  Originally a brick structure dating back to the 10th century, the fort was rebuilt in red sandstone 450 years ago by Emperor Akbar, an enormous undertaking that took eight years to complete. Enclosed within towering walls are a series of mostly connected buildings from which five Mughal emperors governed the country. One was Shah Jahan, builder of the Taj, who added a number of buildings to the complex using his favorite material, white marble.

In between the outer and inner walls was a crocodile infested moat that we overheard also held tigers and other wild animals to deter those who made it past the first line of defense. Highlights within the fort include the Takhti-i-Jehangir, a huge slab of black stone overlooking the river, and a delightfully landscaped garden (Anguri Bagh). Beneath it lies a two-storey labyrinth (not open to the public) of underground rooms and passageways where Akbar used to keep his harem of about 500! Two-thirds of the fort is off-limits, used by the Indian military, but there is enough to see to easily fill a couple of hours.

After the fort, it was time to see the world-famous Taj Mahal. The foreigner’s ticket includes a bottle of water and shoe covers for the areas shoes aren’t allowed for the low low price of $15.  This is twice the price of any other site we’ve visited on India, and more than 25 times the Indian price, buy still well worth it.The Taj Mahal is truly a work of art.

Constructed by Shah Jahan in  memory of his queen Mumtaj Mahal. Though he was later overthrown and imprisoned in Agra Fort, after his death he was buried here with his beloved wife. The approach is a wide area of ornamental gardens and pools with fountains. The Taj Mahal itself is at the northern end of the complex, with the river behind it.The carved white marble screens, arches, and inlay with thousands of semiprecious stones seems never-ending. The flower patterns are exquisite, as is the sense of symmetry. Even with all the people milling about, it’s big enough to find a peaceful spot to just sit and enjoy the views. At sunset we went to the other side of the river to view the building from the back. Gorgeous.

The marble inlay and carved marble screens were just as impressive at  the tomb of Itimad ud Daulah,  sometimes called the “Baby Taj.” Built earlier, a number of its stylistic features are also seen at the Taj Mahal. Set right next to the river, this area was very peaceful, and with so few other visitors around, a great place to take a break. 360cities.net has a really cool image of the building and grounds.

One unexpected highlight of the day was lunch with Manish, during which we discussed everything from arranged marriage to sports. As the oldest son, he has a huge responsibility to help his family in many ways. Any money he earns is turned over directly, and there are always requests and demands. One of his sisters is married, which was an enormous financial burden, and his brothers are younger, so not as able to contribute. His other sister, he said, is “a good girl, because she doesn’t leave the house. She is happy to sit home all day and watch tv and tell me what she needs when I get home.” He believes it will help her find a better husband that she hasn’t been out in the street trying to be a “modern girl,” though her lack of cooking skills will be hard to overlook.

Photos of Agra and its amazing sites can be viewed HERE.