Arriving in Kagoshima in the late afternoon, we checked in and relaxed for a bit before heading back out for dinner. It was great to see Miwa, who was in town for the weekend as well! She had been an exchange student to Cape Cod around the same time I was in Japan, and it was fun to reminiscence over a leisurely meal and drinks. We made sure to have the local sweet potato shochu (a distilled liquor).

In the morning, we began a marathon hike to cover the city and nearby island in a day. Kagoshima is a pretty city by the sea, one of the southernmost on Kyushu, Japan’s south island. There were lots of parks and flowers. We were lucky to catch the last couple of days of a citywide flower fest, and the blooms were everywhere. We passed statues of some major figures in the city’s history (Saigo Takamori, Okubo Toahimichi). Kagoshima had a big role in the Meiji Restoration, and has a long history of trade and exchange with the rest of the world. There are museums and other spots related to the Meiji Restoration, museums of art, culture and literature, as well as gardens, an aquarium and entertainment and dining districts. The Dolphin Port, right by the ferry terminal is a great spot to hang out, with Sakurajima looming in the background.

Sakurajima, with its very active volcano, was a perfect natural getaway. Cloud cover kept us from the view you get on all the postcards, but we knew the cone was up there smoldering. The volcano museum was very informative, with a short film and displays of the various eruptions and their effects. Lava seems to eventually make for some fertile soil, and giant Sakurajima daikon is in the Guinness Book for the largest variety of radish in the world. There must be something about the volcanic soil they love.

We walked the paths by the waterfront, through the lava fields from the latest big lava flow in 1915, and made good use of the public foot spa, which pumps in water heated from the volcanic thermals. These waters have curative minerals which are said to help rejuvenate weary feet.

In the evening, we were so dazzled by all the lights, sights and smells that it took almost two hours to decide on a place to eat. We ended up on the second floor of a narrow building in the Tenmonkan vicinity. The girl who opened the door had us take our shoes off, and ushered us into our own private, dimly lit room. The table was just above the level of the floor, and you sit with legs underneath. On it, was a bell like a doorbell. After sounding out what I could on the menu we rang to get her back and ordered 20 gyoza (they make them tiny here), black pig croquettes (for the famous local pork) and okonomiyaki Kagoshima style. Okonomiyaki is hard to describe. Sometimes it’s translated as a Japanese pancake, sometimes as Japanese pizza. The pancake comparison is for how it’s cooked: a batter you pour onto a hot griddle. Before you do, you sear some cabbage and other ingredients. I don’t know when they get it in there, but Kagoshima style also involves pork and noodles cooked inside. The pizza comparison comes in because it’s a savory dish, and you can have any ingredients you like in it. It is also cut into pizza shaped wedges to serve. Oh, and on top there’s a special sauce, Japanese mayo, fish flakes and pickled ginger.

We could easily have spent more time here on the south of Kyushu, and hope someday to return.

More photos can be viewed here.