Argentina: tango dancing, wine, steak, a capital city filled with history and culture: theater, dance, art and architecture. Away from the hustle and bustle of Buenos Aires, Argentina also has its natural side: Iguazu Falls in the north, salt pans in the west, the Andes, regions of lakes, grasslands and vineyards. Patagonia is the gateway to the region of ice fields and glaciers. It is wild, rugged and beautiful. It is also immense. Though far from the easiest option, the most rewarding way to explore the region is by road. Along the way, pass through wild prairie-lands dotted with occasional ice-blue lakes or a winding river. Patagonian gauchos (cowboys) herd sheep with a faithful dog by their side. Jagged, snow-capped mountain peaks loom everywhere, making everything else seem incredibly small.
Intro to El Calafate
If you find yourself wandering through Patagonia over land, El Calafate is a great place to take a rest stop. Though tourism keeps changing the face of this once quiet town, it remains a great jumping off point for exploring the region, and for us it was an easy place to collect our thoughts for the next step of the voyage. We visited after our stay in Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world. We left by bus, traveling on lonely National Route 3, which runs up most of the east of the country. During the 15-hour bus ride to Rio Gallegos, we had to cross in and out of Chile due to geography and politics, as well as crossing the Strait of Magellan. (NB: If you’re low on space in you’re passport, as we were, this bus ride was 4 extra stamps!) During the ferry ride across the strait we spotted a few Commerson’s dolphins playing in the boats wake! Below are the highlights of our stay in El Calafate.
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Source: http://www.allaboutar.com/ard_cala.htm
Lago Argentino
The town sits on the shore of the picturesque Lago Argentino (Argentina Lake), the biggest freshwater lake in Argentina. Board a boat to view glaciers in Los Glaciares National Park, recently recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage site. The park covers over 2300 sq miles (6000 km sq) and there are 47 glaciers within its limits. Boat excursions take you through deep green waters sometimes somewhat clouded by a little glacial milk from glaciers rubbing against each other. The colors of the ice vary from stark white to aqua, sky and the deepest jewel-toned blues. Spegazzini, Upsala and Onelli glaciers are the biggest and tallest, and visible pretty much whichever tour is taken, though routes and stops can vary based on navigability of the channels. Ice breaks can prevent boats from entering certain areas at times.
Perito Moreno Glacier
Perito Moreno is perhaps the most famous and photogenic of the glaciers. It’s one of the few “advancing glaciers” in the world, constantly moving and changing. There are easy walking trails and viewing platforms where you can just stand and gawk. The sheer magnitude of these awesome pieces of ice is jaw-dropping, and the shapes of the icebergs created are limitless. Don’t just look though, the sound of the ice creaking and cracking, dropping pieces into the water is unforgettable too. See the video below! Quick facts:
The glacier is 97 square miles (250 sq km) and measures 19 miles (30 km) in length. Additionally, the glacier measures 3 miles (5 km) wide with a total ice depth of 558 feet (170 m). The deepest part of the glacier measures 2,297 feet (700 m).
Picnic at Lake Onelli
A walk from Onelli Bay leads to the place where the Onelli, Bolados, and Agassiz glaciers converge. The scenery is spectacular!
Hiking around El Calafate
Local operators can fill you in on the options, but many make a day or multi-day trip to El Chalten, “National Trekking Capital of Argentina,” and gateway to Mt. Fitz Roy and Cerro Torres. This is a great option for more serious trekkers. Getting out into the Patagonian wilds just can’t be beat.
Laguna Nimez’ Ecological Preserve
A walk around the preserve will reveal a wide variety of birds native to the region as well as those visiting during migration. These include black-necked swans, buff-necked ibises, southern lapwings and flamingos. It’s a relaxing walk, and a good option for a first or last day when you’re not up to anything too strenuous. If you want a giggle, read about our hike just out of town around the lagoons where we had a scary run-in with a very territorial creature.
Scenic Views
The bus trip along Route 40 beginning at El Calafate and ending in Bariloche offers amazing views, especially on the first leg (El Calafate to Perito Moreno town). Roads are rough, and this is a two-day trip, but well worth the effort if you have the time.
BONUS: El Calafate in English is the Magellan Barberry, an evergreen that is the symbol of Patagonia. Its dark blue berries can be eaten fresh or used in jams, but once you do, according to legend, you are sure to return to Patagonia.
