Intro to Gyeongju
Once the capital of the ancient Silla Kingdown, which ruled most of the Korean peninsula from the 7th to 9th century, Gyeongju maintains a concentration of temple and palace remains, Buddhist art, statues, pagodas and other historical sites is unparalleled elsewhere in the country. We spent our time in Gyeongju wandering among the tumuli (large, grass-covered burial mounds), hiking in the surrounding hills, and getting a break from the more chaotic, urban centers of Busan and Seoul. Here are our recommended highlights:
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Those Mysterious Hills: Tumuli
Tumuli (grass-covered burial mounds) can be seen in a number of areas around the city. We spent a day just wandering around the Daereung-won Tumuli Park, right in the main part of town. There are three main areas of Royal Tombs in the park, all from the Silla Kingdom with about two dozen tombs in total (of hundreds scattered around Gyeongju and the surrounding area). These include several double tombs, where husband and wife were buried together. All of those perfectly-shaped green hills against the bright blue sky reminded us of the classic Microsoft screensaver, quite a surreal setting! One of the main tombs, Cheonmachong, has been excavated and can be entered from a doorway in the side of the hill. It’s known as the Tomb of the Heavenly Horse for the painting of a white horse on a saddle flap found among the artifacts in the burial chamber. The tumuli park is part of the Gyeongju Historic Area UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Bulguksa Temple Area
Bulguksa is one of South Korea’s largest Buddhist temples. Built during the Silla era in 528, it’s now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A number of important cultural relics are housed here among the wooden shrines of the temple complex, and on the grounds are two famous pagodas. The stonework is amazing! Be sure to check out the ornately carved railings on the way up the 33 stairs of the Bridge of White Cloud and the Bridge of Blue Cloud, symbolizing the 33 heavens. Near Bulguksa, at the top of the mountain, Seokguram Grotto contains a large sculpture of the Buddha in bhumisparsha mudra position, looking out toward the Sea of Japan. This is also part of the UNESCO site, and a gorgeous piece of art in its own right. Be prepared to hike a bit to get up to it.
Sacred Mountain, Namsan
Namsan, sacred Buddhist mountain and traditional, natural site of prayer lies to the south of the city, within Gyeongju National Park. Mount Namsan has so far revealed the remains of 122 Buddhist temples, and excavations have uncovered evidence of pre-Buddhist natural and animistic practices as well. At the foot of Namsan lies the remains of an ancient royal villa from the Silla period, Poseokjeong. This is just one of many sites of the remains of temples, tombs, palaces and pagodas. Starting our hike near here, we came upon countless stone engravings, rock-cut reliefs, pagodas and rock piles. The setting was very natural, and it felt like we were discovering things all on our own. No matter which way you look, Buddha’s serene face seems to gaze out in every direction from within the rock. Even more interesting is that the mountain is a living site. We saw monks in meditation, hikers enjoying nature, people praying, each celebrating the place in a personal way. There are numerous trails to choose from. We had a picnic lunch on the peak of Mt. Geomobong before descending through the Samneung Valley. This route, including the break, took about 6 hours.
Wolseong Area
In the area of Wolseong lies the Gyerim woodland (rooster forest), where the founder of the area’s major clan was said to have been found in a golden box, accompanied by a rooster! Also in this area are the ruins of Imhaejeon Palace as well as the Cheomseongdae Observatory. The “stargazing platform” is made of circular layers of cut granite, said to have been constructed in the 600s. It’s the oldest surviving structure of its kind in East Asia. The pretty Anapji pond is near the palace ruins.
Gyeongju National Museum is a great place to get some background before venturing out to some of the historical sites. Admission is free. The museum is divided into four parts: Archaeology Hall, Art Hall, Anapji Hall (with relics found in the excavation of Anapji pond, which you can visit while exploring the Royal Tombs) and an outdoor exhibition area.
Nature in Bloom
Besides the tumuli, what we remember most about Gyeongju is FLOWERS! We were in town in early June, and everything still seemed to be blooming, though we missed the famous cherry blossoms of early April. In addition to gorgeous fields of rapeseed and rows and rows of hollyhock, if anyone can identify any of the other blooms below, please let me know in the comments! There is also an impressive area near Anapji Pond, not to be missed if the lotus and water lilies are in bloom.
Where We Stayed
We had a very comfortable stay at Nahbi Guest House, run by TJ, a fellow couchsurfer and great host. He does a nice rooftop get-to-know-eachother for his diverse international guests nightly. Bring your own snacks and brews.
BONUS: Gyeongju has great eats! Be sure to try some Hwangnam-ppang, small, round pastries filled with sweet red bean paste.
For some tips on some off-the-beaten path spots in Gyeongju, check out this recent article from HAPS Magazine: Travel: The Unknown Gyeongju
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