Driving across Texas for what seemed like forever, we had time to think. Where’s a fun place to stop between Dallas and Phoenix? We’d faced this question before many times. Pecos, with the quirky Swiss Clock Inn by Best Western used to be a go-to, very close to where I-10 and I-20 meet. But then it hit us: Van Horn, and more specifically the charming Hotel El Capitán. We’d been there last in the spring of 2010, not long after it reopened after an extensive renovation, transforming the historic building that had started as a hotel and later served as a bank, back into a gathering place for locals and visitors and a place for travelers to rest their road-weary heads.
El Capitán History
Opened as a cattlemen’s hotel in 1930, with the railroad depot across the street, ranchers used to trade cattle in the lobby. The hotel was designed by the talented architect Henry Trost, and built by Charles Bassett, one of five hotels of the Gateway Hotel chain constructed in west Texas and eastern New Mexico to increase tourism within 200 miles of El Paso. In the 70s, the hotel was converted to a bank. Vaults installed during that time are now used for bar storage in the dining room and as a small gift shop off the lobby. In 2007, new owners started extensive renovation, and the hotel reopened in 2009. More recently, an elevator was installed, bathrooms redone with classic black and white hexagon tile and Kohler fixtures, and an exact replica of the original red, neon sign on the roof calls travelers to end their journey for the night. This video has great footage of some of the hotel’s unique features like the European tile in the lobby and high, beamed ceilings. I wish it showed some of the hidden passageways, covered for security when the bank set up shop, and rediscovered during renovation.
Renovations
We had one of the slightly larger rooms facing the road with an oversize picture window taking up one wall and French doors opening to a balcony overlooking the courtyard on the other. The bed was plush and soft, with lots of pillows. Colors are muted sage and taupe. Trains passed in the night as they must have for almost a hundred years. As we did on our first visit, we enjoyed sitting in the courtyard by the fountain, under the palm and olive trees. For dinner at the restaurant we chose the Pistachio crusted steak with mashed potatoes and jalapeno gravy. Delicious! At the Gopher Hole Bar (named for the configuration of passageways leading to it in its former location in the basement), we swapped stories with a rocket scientist doing some “testing” an hour north (oddly enough we spent the evening with a group from the same operation when we were here last time) and a cowboy who had some good advice on local roads. Another patron was even wearing spurs, and they didn’t seem to be a fashion statement.
Don’t forget to take a look at our original blog about El Capitán from May, 2010.
Wow, I’ve literally spent months in Texas and I’ve never seen a Texas shaped waffle! I live for brunch (only because I tend to sleep in too late for breakfast) and have never come across one before. Next time I’m down there I’m scoping out a place with them. I’m actually a little surprised it’s not bigger though. Everyone knows everything is bigger in Texas. 😉
Haha. Yes, pretty much everything is bigger in Texas! The waffles are around. Some hotel chains (I’m pretty sure Hamptons, for example) have the Texas-shaped waffle maker at the do-it-yourself breakfast bar. That way you can adorn it as you like. Enjoy your next trip!