Next in our series of weekend wanders was a trip up the coast to Cape Tribulation.  After a few days on foot it was nice to have our own wheels again.  After a quick stop in Port Douglas for a look around, we head directly to Mossman Gorge.  The traditional owners here (and in the greater area) are the Kuku-Yalanji people, and they lead several walks and tours in the area.  We had lunch on the bank of the river, watching people take advantage of the refreshing water and safe spot to swim.  

Around the Gorge, there was a 2.5 km walking trail through the rainforest with glimpses of the river now and then.  We had a slow wander the length of the trail, taking in the sounds, smells and sites of the rainforest.  Everthing was so green, a million shades of it.  There were whiffs of something like eucalyptus, of honey, sweet floral scents and spicy earthy ones.  We only came across a few other people along the way, and it was quiet except for the birds and insects chattering away.  At the end of the trail there was a rock pool with a trickle of water running in from one side.  The water was clear, and we could see several fish trying to hide in the shade of a fallen log.  We waded in up to our shins and cooled our feet in the water.  No fear of crocodiles here.

Leaving Mossman behind, we head further north to where the cable ferry brings cars across the Daintree River.  We lined up and paid our fare, then drove aboard the floating platform.  There were a couple of guys, the pilots I suppose in a raised tower on the deck guiding the platform across the river.  Once safely across, we drove off on the other side.  The Daintree River is known for its fishing, birdwatching around lush mangove swamps with birds that migrate from as far as Japan in season to those that stick around.  The croc-spotting tours on the river are also quite popular.  The road went up and over the Alexandra range.  At the top is the Walu Wugirriga Lookout, with a beautiful view of Snapper island, the mouth of the river and out to the Coral Sea.

When we checked into our B&B, the Epiphyte, we were greeted warmly by Ernie.  He was friendly and open and full of useful and welcome information.  Our chats with him made any other brochures and guides for the area seem almost useless.  We found ourselves reflecting back to ask, What did Ernie say about this or that?  The Epiphyte was homey and laid back, and very eco-friendly.  North of the Daintree they are not connected to any grid, and land owners, resorts, etc. are responsible for their own power and water.  Unlike some of the large resorts that use generators, the Epiphyte is 100% solar powered, and an emphasis is placed on saving water and energy.  There is an emphasis on conservation in many aspects of this World Heritage area, and a number of the tour operators and activities are eco-certified.  (Best to look at exactly what this entails, and choose activities and lodging wisely.)  The Epiphyte’s décor is tropical with lots of wood and slate floors in the rooms.  Ours was an ensuite double, very clean and comfortable, with a filmy fucsia mosquito net over the bed.  There was a framed photo of a perfect beach on the shelf next to the bed, enticing us to get up and out there in the morning.  The kitchen was open to make tea or coffee anytime. 

We drove down to Cow Bay Beach on the lookout for cassowaries on the way.  The area of Cow Bay is classified as an Outstanding Cassowary Habitat Zone, and we were hopful to see one.  Cassowaries can grow up to 6 feet tall and weigh up to almost 200 lbs.  In photos they looked like dinosaurs with a blue head, red wattle, a black body and a big, sharp, dangerous claw on each foot.  They can run up to 50 km./hr, and were reportedly quite dangerous, but they are also a keystone species, which means that they are responsible for the continuing survival of a large number of other species.  For example they alone spread the seeds of more than 70n species of fruit-trees.  They are the only ones able to eat, process and redistribute the seeds of these fruits, due to their size.  No luck spotting any on this afternoon though.

We had dinner at Jambu Bar and Restaurant.  Reef Fish Curry Choo Chee with lychees, water chestnut and lemongrass was exquisite, though I felt slightly guilty not digging into the bag of 5-minute meals we’d bought to save money on the trip.  Donny had a kangaroo pizza with mint yogurt, and we each had a beer…something that has become a luxury here in Australia.  We’ve heard the high prices for alcohol are due to the taxes imposed, but regardless of the reason, it’s kept us out of the bars and pubs at least.  Wine is fairly reasonable in the bottle shop, so we get a bottle of that now and then, especially for when we’re camping, making dinner in a communal kitchen and not holed up in a hostel room.

After dinner, Ernie had suggested we take his lanterns and go out for a nighttime animal spotting walk on the nearby Jindalba Boardwalk.  We set off at around 9:30 pm, over the boardwalk built into the hillside and over several creeks.  The moon provided a little light, but the flashlights were very necessary.  We tried to be quiet, but the only life we spotted was some sort of a fan-tailed dragon…very pretty.  We sat down and turned all the lights out for a bit, listening to frogs, insects and birds yammering away hidden from sight.

Back at the Epiphyte, we made tea next to a bright green frog who we learned was a frequent visitor to the kitchen counter and shelves and, according to Glenda, possibly the most photographed frog in the world.  We certainly got a shot of him after he startled Donny who almost put his teacup down on top of him! 

Click here for Queenland pics