Gyeongju is less than a couple of hours from Busan, but its atmosphere feels much further removed. There is more of a small-town feel, not rural, but a laid-back sort of vibe. We had taken the slow train, and it wasn’t a long walk to the Nahbi Guest House. This hostel is very well-run, clean and homey. The owner is a fellow couchsurfer, and he and the staff are super friendly and helpful. They also have a nice rooftop party nightly so guests can chat and compare notes.
The afternoon we arrived was spent strolling among the burial mounds (tumuli) the city is known to have a large concentration of from the Silla Kingdom. Now, from the outside, the large tombs look like perfectly shaped giant green hills. Against the blue sky they looked surreal. Inside, the bigger tombs have a wood-lined room with the body and many burial artifacts. This chamber is covered with boulders and rocks, with earth on top of that, creating a large mound. Smaller tombs are just small hills with no inner structure, and most are presumed lost. You can enter one big mound, Cheonmachong, which has been excavated. This tomb is known as the Tomb of the Heavenly Horse, for the painting of a white horse on a saddle flap found among the artifacts in the burial chamber. There was also a golden crown a foot tall at the head of the remains and many other relics. The tomb is of an unknown king of the Silla Period (57 BC – 935). The tomb itself is about 43 feet high.
We walked through more parks answer forests, including Wolseong, which used to be a fortress. Not much remains but some walls, part of the moat and an ice storehouse. You can still feel the cold air seeping out. The grounds were beautiful, with fields of flowers and woodsy paths. The Gyerim Forest is ancient, and intact in the heart of the city. Also nearby is the Cheomseongdae Astronomical Observatory, its form and function still full of mystery.
The second day we spent hiking in the Namsan area. The mountains are filled Buddhist relics, statues, and pilgrimage sites. Many are carved right into the rock. We had an awesome, day-long trek, clambering around to see everything we could. Only the major spots had explanatory signs in English, but there was plenty to learn. We had a picnic lunch on the peak of Mt. Geomobong before descending through the Samneungol Valley.
Oh my, the blue, green, flowers, and artifacts!! What a great day this was! I think I would have been lost wandering around without English explanations. The photos are just beautiful, and I wanted to be there too!
The trails were pretty well marked in English. It was steep ascent and you would have loved the rappel on the descent! All joking aside we think you would have loved the atmosphere.