Hiroshima City

Hiroshima was built on a delta, so rivers and canals crisscross the city at various points. Our hotel, Reino Inn, was at the western end of one of the main roads, in a convenient spot. It seemed to be a cross between a hotel and a hostel, with the good parts of each!  Our room was big, but bare-bones, spotless but without luxuries like towels or shampoo (all of which could be rented for a small fee). We had a private bathroom, some good Eco-touches like water-saving shower, and a very reasonable price! An early morning walk took us by some of Hiroshima’s better known sights such as the Peace Park, with its varied statues given by different countries with their hopes for peace, several memorials and museums, and the Atomic Bomb Dome. The Dome was originally the Industrial Promotion Hall, which also held meetings and performances. When the bomb exploded above, the people inside were killed and all that was left of the building was a crumbling shell with just the frame of the dome intact. You can see it from most of the downtown area. There were big groups of school children around, and we saw several ceremonies with classes offering strings of thousands of cranes they had folded. Nearby is Hiroshima-jo (castle), established in 1589. Nicknamed “carp castle” it’s set on wide open grounds by the river. During the Edo Period, it took up a large part of this section of town, and was surrounded by three moats. The castle itself was destroyed by the atomic bomb blast, so the one onsite now is a 1958 reconstruction.

Miyajima Overview

From Hiroshima it’s about a 45 minute train ride to where you get the ferry to Miyajima, a nearby island which is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The famous, picturesque Itsukushima Shrine is here, with the instantly recognizable floating torii gate. As soon as you step off the ferry, you are greeted by wild but very tame deer. There are plenty of signs warning people not to feed or touch them, not always heeded, and to hold tight to your map, because deer apparently like to munch paper. We walked around by the water for a while, and down the main shopping arcade, until we found a good spot for a few of the local giant grilled oysters. They were sold with a tiny beer for just an additional hundred yen, so we made the logical choice. The oysters were flavorful and juicy, perfectly matched with the cold beer.

Further along we came to one of the island’s famous photo spots, and took the requisite shots with the iconic torii in the background. The tide was halfway, so it was an ideal time to catch the floating shrine as well. It looks a bit like brightly painted docks with roofs, and includes a big Noh (a Japanese dramatic play) stage. Above the shrine, you can see a big pagoda on the hill. We walked up past it, toward Mt. Misen and into a park near a ropeway that would take you further up the mountain. It was quiet, and we found a spot by a bridge across a stream to sit and rest for a while. To get back down, we followed a well-marked nature trail, with stops by the river and in the woods. Deer regularly walk by or pop out from around the corner.

Okonomiyaki Village

Later, back in Hiroshima we topped off the day with a visit to Okonomi-mura for dinner. This is three stories, each with ten or so open shops, each with their own chef/owner, grill, stools and menu. Styles may be different, but the all sell one specialty: okonomiyaki. We got a delicious mix of seafood and meat and vegetables with soba noodles cooked in the middle, Hiroshima style. Here are pics!