We couldn’t wait to get out of the van in the morning, so we head back up to Ubirr in the morning for another talk, this one about one of the galleries of rock art.  We learned lots more, and when someone had a question about how old the art was, it was interesting to note that the Aboriginal owners don’t care a bit to enter into scientific debate about dates and the like.  They have been here since the beginning, as has their art.  Also, the act of painting itself is more important than the work left behind.  Painting is what imparts all the power and magic to the spot.  Later artists may come along and paint right over earlier art.  This is not at all disrespectful, quite the opposite.  The layers have provided an amazing history of the area, its creatures and its people.  One of the ways those who do want to date the art do so is looking through the layers, comparing subjects and styles to geographical, climactic and archaelogical evidence to create theories.Later we took the Guluyambi boat cruise with an Aboriginal guide, Shane.  He was originally from Alice Springs, but had married a local girl and lived in the area for the past 10 years or so.  We spotted lots of crocodiles in the East Alligator River (which separates the park from Arnhem land) along the way, and Shane was a great guide.  He told us about the seasons, that we were experiencing the heat and humidity of Gunumeleng.  The rain would start soon, and there would be growing clouds and thunderstorms.  He showed us trees traditionally used to predict future weather, and as indicators of the appropriate times to burn the land or perform other activities based on the color of their leaves and condition of the bark. 

There are both freshwater crocodiles (only found in Australia) and saltwater (estuarine) crocodiles in the park.  From the 1940s-60s crocodiles were almost hunted to extinction, but they have made a dramatic recovery in recent years, and managing them is an ongoing challenge.  The saltwater crocs are particularly aggressive, and have attacked and killed people in Kakadu.  We hoped they’d keep their distance from the boat!We landed a ways down the river, and Shane showed us spears for fishing, hunting, etc.  He gave us a demonstration of how much further the spear flew with a launcher than without, and told us of how even a splinted from a traditional Ironwood tip could kill a man.  There were women’s tools as well, baskets and weaving and a digging stick used for many purposes, including punishment.  Traditional punishment is swift, and doled out by your own group after discussing what the punishment should be.  Shane believes restrictions on traditional laws is having a negative imapct on Aboriginal people today who don’t see the same consequences for their actions.

In the afternoon, we head to the Nourlangie area.  We viewed some more of the park’s 5000 rock art sites around the Anbangbang Shelter, a shady, breezy spot among the rocks.  We heard another talk in this spot, and tried to feel the breeze.  Then we walked up to the Gun-warddehwardde Lookout, with views of the distant rock escarpments and woodlands across the open plains.

We camped at Madrugal Campground, another park-managed spot.  There was an amazing lightning show late that night, and a bit of rain that followed.

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