Jodhpur has long been known as the “Blue City,” and the views from the top of its imposing fort prove this still to be true. Historically, it was only the high class, priestly Brahmins who painted their homes this color, and the old Brahmin neighborhoods are still the bluest, but as many other residents started to follow suit over time, pockets of sea and sky shades created a patchwork over the entire landscape that is overwhelmingly azure.

Mehrangarh Fort dominates the view from below, with massive walls rising up seemingly straight out of the rockface. Its foundation was laid in 1459, and descendants of the Maharaja of Jodhpur are still involved in its preservation. For us, highlights included the Sati Handprints of wives who placed them on the wall as they left the fort for the last time after the death of their husband. They continued on to the place of his cremation to dutifully throw themselves on his funeral pyre and join him in the next world.

The miniature paintings gallery has some beautiful works from this genre, while the classic glittering, mirrored and jeweled palaces are very nicely represented as well. It was easy to imagine the royalty sitting on their cushioned thrones being fanned an attendant pulling a rope leading to a piece of thick, tassled fabric hung from the ceiling.

Sati Handprints

The women’s areas are always interesting, and seem especially ornate due to the geometrically carved designs covering the arched “windows.” This lets people to see out, but allows women to maintain purdah, being hidden away from men.

The audio tour was included in admission here, and proved to really enhance our experience.We’ve seen the Narrowcasters name on audio tours in several countries, and they always seem to do an excellent job. There’s lots of information, but not an overwhelming amount, and for those who want more details, there are optional narrations in various subcategories to choose from.

Makhania Lassi

Jodhpur’s old city below is chaotic, with a maze of narrow streets filled with honking autorickshaws and motorbikes, wandering cows and dogs, and endless tiny storefronts. The main bazaar is around the clocktower, and specializes in saris, spices and local sweets. Bargain hard and stuff your suitcase with treasures. Just inside the old city gate in the clocktower square, connected with the Shri Mishrilal Hotel, is a famous shop with just one item on the menu, the makhania (saffron and cardamom-based) lassi. With historical photos of Ghandi, Nehru and the rest looking on, a constant stream of locals and visitors savor this ridiculously sweet and creamy concoction, worth every single one of its probably 2000 calories and 25 Rupees.

Photos HERE.