No trip to Indonesia would be complete without a visit to the island of Java: not just to sample the coffee but to see how a true Indonesian city feels.

After a quick fifty minute flight from Bali, we arrived in the city of Yogyakarta, Jogjakarta or, locally, Jogja. Our best-laid plan for accommodation was scratched shortly after check-in.  Let’s just say they had a job for the Orkin Man. Luckily we were able to talk our way out of there without too many hard feelings or financial losses, and hop in a taxi for Malioboro Street, the main backpacker area.

Immediately upon exiting the taxi, we were asked if we needed everything from lodging to a batik painting. We walked toward the gangs (alleys) of Jl Sosrowijayan where we knew all the guesthouses and homestays were located.

Finally giving in to the calls for lodging we made friends with a local who introduced himself as Ghosti. He seemed to know the amenities and prices of all the guesthouses in the area. We followed him through the maze-like gangs and looked at a few places. We decided on La Javanaise Homestay, going all-out in room number 1 of their 3. (It was the biggest, and had an oscillating fan.) Half-expecting to be asked to pay Ghosti for his room brokerage services, he was nowhere to be seen after we dropped our bags and went to check in.

Twenty minutes later we were sitting on the balcony sipping local Java java, and the day was looking up. Ghosti turned up, and let us know he also worked for a tour company on the main street. He still did not ask for a tip, but explained the best ways to visit the local historic sites Borobudur and Prambanan. Borobudur is best visited when it opens at 6 am in order to miss the crowds and heat of the day.

A 5 am departure got us to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Borobudur just before the 6 am opening. The sun was up, but low, and a heavy mist clung to the trees and balconies of the temple. It was so quiet, still easy to wander around slowly and avoid running into other tourists (though this didn’t last long). Each level provided new views of the carvings and reliefs, as well as the surrounding countryside. The shapes and silhouettes were different, and we realized it had been a while since we’d been temple-hopping. We entered from the east, which is customary, and were sure to perform the traditional three times around in a clockwise direction to show respect. On the upper few levels were bell-shaped stone enclosures, each with a carved stone Buddha inside. The workmanship of all the stonecarvings, sculpture and reliefs was truly amazing, as was the scale of the place.

As it got a bit later, school groups arrived, and we were very politely asked if we had a few minutes to talk and practice English. The kids were mostly junior high or high-school age, and SO excited. They had traveled from smaller towns to see this part of their country’s history, and were proud others had come so far to see it as well. Several asked what we thought of Indonesian people, and when we replied that they were very friendly (true!), the response was extremely happy and appreciative.

A half-hour or so away, the National Archaeological Park at Prambanan is a sprawling compound with tree-lined walkways and a bikepath linking several sets of structures. The largest kingdom in Java in the early 700s was Mataram, ruled by Sanjaya, a Hindu nobleman. Between his reign and that of a descendant a century later, a Buddhist dynasty was in control. The descendant married a Buddhist princess, and reestablished Hindu influence in the kingdom. In 856, in commemoration of the Sanjaya return to power, work on the Prambanan temple complex began. The three main buildings that survive today are dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma. Reliefs carved into the stone balconies of the temples depict the famous story of Ramayana.

Just under a kilometer from this main area (with some minor structures in various stages of reconstruction) is the Buddhist Sewu Temple, established by the same Hindu king, Rakai Pikatan. This group consists of a main temple with 240 small temples surrounding it. Most of the smaller temples are in many pieces, and the whole area is absolutely filled with endless piles of blocks. It’s and archaeologist’s dream…or maybe nightmare. In addition to deterioration from age, there are the additional challenges of water damage, a major earthquake and the ever present danger of volcanic eruptions and ash from the nearby Mt. Merapi. Candi (temple) Mendut & Pawon were a bonus side-visit.

While in Jogja we also visited the Sultan’s Palace and the Water Palace (Tamansari), former Sultan’s playground. There was a wedding while we were in, which was a huge celebration. The current sultan has just one wife, and is the father of 5 daughters. This means his brother will be the next sultan. He didn’t want his daughters to be part of a harem, so he wanted only one wife for himself as well.

If you can escape the “batik gallery” scams and get somewhere to really appreciate the art, Jogja has some truly amazing artists. The batik tradition is everywhere, and the patience, technical skill and imagination expressed in their works can be astounding. Now that fewer people dress in batik, there are all sorts of framed works, table or bed coverings and murals to appeal to every taste.

Jogja was an unplanned stop, the best kind, and we ended up staying until the very last day of our Indonesia visa. From a prepaid taxi that didn’t show up at 3 am and bedbugs on arrival to a place we splurged on, Jogja turned things around and made itself an unforgettable, perfect stop. As is always the case, it was the people we met and the experiences we had rather than the photos snapped of landmarks that made it the lasting memory it will always be  for us.

Photos here.