An early start helped us beat the crowds to a special spot called Fushimi Inari. The shrines were originally dedicated to the gods of rice and sake, and later expanded to include prosperity in business. Along with a number of pretty shrines and countless statues of foxes (messenger of Inari), the area provides a peaceful 4k walk through thousands of torii gates all the way to the top of the mountain. There are beautiful views down to the city from near the top. It was kind of a foggy, misty day, which added to the mysterious atmosphere. The wind whispered through the trees, and we were surprised at one point by a strange animal rustling around in the grasses. We each saw something different, but we’re sticking with Japanese raccoon as our official guess. Unofficially, that messenger fox likes to play tricks on people sometimes.
The famous Golden Pavilion was a totally different atmosphere for the afternoon, and we pushed through school groups, jockeying for the best spots to snap a photo. To calm things down, we stopped soon after at Ryoanji, a Zen temple and garden with an amazing rock garden.
In the evening, with some help from our friend Miwa, we were able to get in to see the annual Takigi Noh performance in front of one of the main temples in the center of the city, Heian-jingu. Three major Noh schools performed plays of different types within Noh, on an outdoor stage lit by fires. Originally derived from planting and harvesting rituals and dances, Noh developed into a highly refined art form. The plays combine music, dance, chant and beautiful costumes and masks. The movements are slow and rhythmic, and require the actors to have a great deal of concentration and balance. There are only a few performers on stage, so focus is always on. The musicians’ skills were impressive as well. We were mesmerized, and the hours-long performance seemed to fly by.
The following day was relaxed in Arashiyama, a ways out of the city in the foothills to the west. We bought an obento lunch, and ate in one of the parks after exploring a few temples and streets. One of the highlights was the bamboo grove walking path. The bamboo was think and green, and the whole thing seemed to sway in unison far above our heads. Late in the afternoon, we crossed the bridge and stopped for a green tea flavored icee with red bean topping and milk syrup. There’s nothing better to beat the late spring heat.
