Mokoro

Mokoro

The delta trip began with an hour-or-so-long jeep ride to the delta.  There was a bit of confusion and waiting around as other groups were returning to shore and polers (those local men and women with excellent balance who pushed the mokoros along with poles deep into the delta) were shuffling people and belongings.  Our poler was Liba.  He liked to stay out in front, and knowing there were hippos and crocs throughout the delta, and that the low, slender mokoros, carved from the sausage tree are quite susceptible to being turned over, was somewhat unnerving.  Liba and the others spoke mostly Setswana among themselves, and were shy..or at least not overly outgoing.  They did know the area and its plants, animals and stories, and if you listened and asked, the information was there.

We set up camp and got ready to head out on a late-afternoon game walk.  Groups of 5 or so head out, and though we didn’t see many (any) animals, we did learn about some plants and trees, and heard a couple of stories.  The best was about why  the hippo came to spread his dung.  Here’s the story as told on a forum on one of the Southern Africa National Parks website’s forums, though the tale we were told substituted man for “the Creator.”  It was also added that this having to prove themselves all the time is why the angry hippos still kick over mokoros when they have the opportunity.  It is apparently a story common to many tribes in Africa, but that started as a bushman’s tale.

“When the creator was giving each animal a place in the world, the pair of hippos begged to be allowed to live in the cool water which they so dearly loved.

The Creator looked at them, and was doubtful about letting them live in the water. Their mouths were so large, their teeth so long and sharp and their seize and their appetites were so big, He was afraid that they would eat up all the fish. Besides, He had already granted the place to another predator : the crocodile. He couldn’t have two kinds of large, hungry animals living in the rivers. So the Creator refused the hippo’s request, and told them that they could live out on the open plains.

 

 

 

 


At this news, the two hippos began to weep and wail, making the most awful noise. They pleaded and pleaded with the Creator, who finally gave in. But He mad the hippos promise that if they lived in the rivers, they must never harm a single fish. They were to eat grass instead. The Hippos promised solemnly, and rushed to the river, grunting with delight.

And to this day, hippos always scatter their dung on the river bank, so the Creator can see that it contains no fish bones. And you can still hear them laughing with joy that they were allowed to live in the rivers after all.”

 

 

 

 

When we returned just after sunset, there was an elephant crashing around in the trees just behind the campsite.  We kept our distance, but it was still plenty close enough. 

 

Getting ready to prepare dinner, we discovered several crates of supplies had been left behind…no one quite knew where.  One of the crates had all the knives, utensils, and some kitchen tools (ie can opener).  The other was full of vegetables.  Resigned to the fact the crates were nowhere to be found, and with one borrowed knife from the neighboring campsite, we did our best to adjust the menus and share the few utensils we had among us.  Pocket knives were heaven-sent, and one of the guys (Andy) even carved himself a multi-use eating utensil (combo fork and spoon) from a branch.  The temporary crisis became a bonding experience, and one of the highlights of the delta trip as a whole.

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About the author

Tamara and Donny have wandered together since 2004, with no cure for their insatiable wanderlust. They write about discovering new destinations including beautiful photography, plus budget travel tips and how to give back through travel.