The sometimes lush and green, sometimes bare and craggy Taebek Mountains meet the pounding Eastern Sea in South Korea’s northeastern Gangwon Province.  To the north is North Korea, to which originally part of the region originally belonged. (Kim Il Sung’s former villa is nearby). Seoul is a few hours southwest by bus, and everything east is ocean.  As for cuisine, dishes are dominated by wild mountain vegetables, especially mushrooms, seafood, including a squid sausage (squid is used as the outside rather than pork casing), sundubu, a soft tofu made with seawater, and potatoes.

Overlooking the Sea of Japan, Naksan-sa (temple), was a beautiful place for a walk on a rainy day. Founded in 671, many parts of the temple complex were destroyed by a wildfire in 2005, and lots of relics were damaged or lost, but much has been restored since then.  The temple bell remains where it lay after the fire, a reminder of nature’s force. The 53-foot statue Gwanseum-Bosal is of the Haesugwaneumsang (해수관음입상, Bodhisattva of Mercy) is the most prominent feature, with a peaceful countenance and pleasant surrounding plaza. There are paths leading between all of the temple buildings. The four deva statues on the way into one of the main halls were especially interesting. Our favorite spot of all was on a rocky outcrop hanging over the crashing waves. Inside there is a hole in the floor through wich you can see the surf below. It was a popular photo stop for visitors, who were mostly respectful to those who were there to meditate and perform the Seon Buddhist prostrations.

We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering the town around Naksan Beach, which soon will be crowded with tourists and Seoulites escaping the summer heat. Judging from the number of live-fish tank restaurants, convenience stores, and shops selling inflatables and beach toys, this place must be hopping in season.  Back in Sokcho, we dined on a huge potato pancake and a bowl of gamja ongsimi, a potato dumpling soup, along with (of course) the ever-present bottle of soju (the national drink, a distilled rice wine similar to sake).

More photos HERE.