Provincial capital Nanjing was an enjoyable stop, greener than most, with a definite university feel. Unfortunately most-known for the 1937 massacre and violence (Rape of Nanking) following the Japanese capture of the city, Nanjing was also twice the former capital, once in the Ming Dynasty, and again briefly at the beginning of the 20th Century. Its city wall is the largest surviving city wall ever constructed, measuring about 34 kilometers in length. Today about 2/3 is still standing. The drum tower and bell tower weren’t too exciting, but there were some nice parks and plazas nearby.
Walking along part of the city wall one day, we passed a big temple and a lake with a big park surrounding it. There were groups of old men who, once they’d parked their bicycles, hung their birds in their cages from the trees while they sat and chat and played chess. Eventually, we came to an entrance to Zijin (Golden-Purple) Mountain.
On the mountain there is a cable car up to an observatory, which we skipped, botanical gardens, and a number of historical sites, including Sun Yat San’s mausoleum. We spent the afternoon at the Xiaoling tomb of the Hongwu Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang, the only Ming emperor buried outside of Beijing. Queen Ma is buried here as well. The grounds are huge, with various pathways, orchards, a lake and other buildings. The main stele in his honor features a turtle.
Along one of the “sacred ways” are 12 pairs of six animals, camels, elephants, lions and some mythical beasts, each with a different auspicious meaning relevant to the Emporer in the afterlife. Another path, Weng Zhong road, has pairs of stone ministers and generals. The main structure of the mausoleum, while enormous, has been rebuilt, and is smaller than the original. Fang Cheng (a castle-like building) and Ming Lou (a structure built in palace style) are two of the main buildings.