Lochsa River

National Trails System

Some of our cross-country drives have taken us along various stretches of the National Trails System, the network of scenic, historic, and recreation trails created by the National Trails System Act of 1968. Route 12 from Lewiston, Idaho (near the Washington border) stretching into Montana is known as the Northwest Passage Scenic Byway. It follows bits of the Lewis and Clark Trail and pieces of the Nez Perce Trail. These National historic trails, according to the National Park Service, “commemorate historic (and prehistoric) routes of travel that are of significance to the entire Nation.” It was exciting, even by car, to travel along this spectacularly scenic route and follow in these ancient footsteps. This 202-mile route passes through the Idaho Rockies past clear rivers and towering forests. It’s often named as one of the most scenic drives in the region.

The Northwest Passage

It was in 1803 that Lewis and Clark were commissioned to find the Northwest Passage through the Rockies that would connect the Missouri and Columbia rivers. Though they did learn there was no easy way, Sacagawea led them to the Nez Perce traditional routes that had always led them on their travels through the Bitterroot mountains and canyons that are part of what is now Montana and Northern Idaho. The route follows the Clearwater and Lochsa Rivers, with beautiful views that slowly change from low, rolling hills to mountains covered with tall evergreens once you near the Lolo Pass into Montana.  The Clearwater Canyon was dotted with fishermen, three or four to a boat, who looked like they were doing more floating and beer-drinking than catching fish on a lazy Sunday afternoon. Others stood thigh-deep in their waders hoping for a bite.

The Heart of the Monster

Heart of the Monster

Early in the day we stopped in East Kamiah, ID for a walk at “The Heart of the Monster” historic site. It’s part of Nez Perce National Historical Park, and there are a number of these sacred spots spread over several states. This spot is also an important pre-historic and historic crossing point of the Clearwater River. The Nez Perce forded the river here on their 1877 journey.  Along a walking trail, we sat and listened to the Heart of the Monster story (push a button to hear an elder tell the tale as you sit in front of the rock hill that represents the heart itself).  The story, in a nutshell, is that coyote ends up tricking and killing a monster that had been eating all the local animals. He then slices the monster up and flings the pieces far and wide. Each part of the monster marks the homeland of a different tribe. The heart of the monster remained here, and will forever symbolize the home of the Nez Perce, and as a remembrance of the battle.  Traditional stories like these (with Coyote playing the role of teacher, trickster or hero, depending on the tale), were passed down from generation to generation. They taught children about the natural world around them as well as serving as a means to learn about their own history and culture. It was a very pretty area, and we made use of the macro feature of the camera on some native flowers and plants. The countless, bright red grasshoppers that inhabited the meadows were, unfortunately, too quick to capture on film. They were amazing to watch, though, after we recovered from the initial surprise.

Interesting Blooms

Lolo Pass

After the Heart of the Monster, the road splits, and Route 12 passes the middle fork of the Clearwater on to the Lochsa Wild and Scenic River until finally culminating at Lolo Pass. Here, the Northwest Passage reaches its eastern gateway at the Montana border. At the Lolo Pass Visitor’s Center, we learned more about the Nez Perce, and saw a great topo map showing the Lewis and Clark route, the Nez Perce Trail, overlaid by modern highways and byways.  All of them follow the rivers and curve around the mountains. Nature rules.

The 1877 flight of the Nez Perce from their homelands while pursued by U.S. Army Generals Howard, Sturgis, and Miles, is one of the most fascinating and sorrowful events in Western U.S. history. Chief Joseph, Chief Looking Glass, Chief White Bird, Chief Ollokot, Chief Lean Elk, and others led nearly 750 Nez Perce men, women, and children and twice that many horses over 1,170 miles through the mountains, on a trip that lasted from June to October of 1877.

Forced to abandon hopes for a peaceful move to the Lapwai reservation, the Nez Perce chiefs saw flight to Canada as their last promise for peace. The flight of the Nez Perce began on June 15, 1877. Pursued by the Army, they intended initially to seek safety with their Crow allies on the plains to the east. Their desperate and circuitous route as they tried to escape the pursuing white forces is what we now call the Nez Perce National Historic Trail.  http://www.fs.fed.us/npnht/

Our short hikes were enough to fill us with admiration and awe of those who survived those journeys. If we are ever able to return to this beautiful part of the country, we’d love to spend more time along the Northwest Passage and make the most of the surrounding historic trail system.

CLICK HERE for photos.