Osaka is a great jumping off point for exploring the region. It has a bit of everything, and no doubt something for everyone. Like any big urban center, it can be overwhelming until you get oriented and find what neighborhoods suit you best. We were couchsurfing in the Daito area, not far from Nozaki station, about 20 minutes or so out of the city. The neighborhood was really appealing: far enough out to feel quiet and residential, but still with plenty of activity and life. It seemed to have a youngish vibe, maybe a less expensive option for younger folks who work downtown.
Our host this time was a musician, Akira, whose band, Yusari, has just finished a new album. It’s got a smooth, jazzy kind of feel, with good rhythms and melodies. It’s on itunes, or their site is www.yusari.com. Akira was a fun and generous host. We stayed up late chatting, and he introduced us to his favorite okonomiyaki place, serving the dish Osaka style. We enjoyed our time with him and his girlfriend (which made an awesome chocolate cake!) and wished we could have stayed longer!
On our free day in the area, we stopped first at Nozaki Kannon (Jigenji) temple. It was at the top of a long flight of stairs, a great way to get your blood running in the morning. Most recently built in 1616, the temple and its famous statue have a long history. The pilgrimage here has been mentioned in songs and plays, with 200,000 pilgrims and spectators visiting during Golden Week. Our visit was really peaceful, with barely a soul in sight, and a nice way to start the day.
Once in Osaka, we decided to just wander. We picked out a few neighborhoods, hopped on and off the loop train, and explored. First we made a stop at Osaka castle, since we had been hitting every other castle, and wanted to compare. It’s a pretty one, but we didn’t go inside. Next stop was Tennoji, with a run-down what was once a “New World” area including an imposing tower. One cool spot was a temple called Shitenno-ji, one of the oldest Buddhist temples in Japan, and linked to Prince Shotoku, who was instrumental in bringing Buddhism to Japan. The big stone torii leading into the temple is original, dating from 1294. There were lots of turtles everywhere, which of course was a treat. They were basking in the sun, swimming in the ponds, and seen in various decorations around the temple as well.
After a walk through Den-Den electronics town, and a yummy Nepalese curry lunch with naan as big as the table, it was time to slow things down. We found ourselves at the dramatically designed Umeda Sky building, and splurged on a visit to the top. The view from the top was amazing, and we had fun sitting in the little “escargot cabin” couches gazing out at the skyline. There were some interesting displays of other sky gardens in the world, and romantic spots outside on the rooftop Lumi Sky Walk to sit or hang your “heart lock,” and hope your love will last. There is a bench in this area as well that if you sit on it will project a light pattern demonstrating the level of love (1 to 4).
