Hakata is best known for two things: being home to the largest wooden Buddha and Hakata Ramen. We tossed our bags in a coin locker at the station, halfway between Kumamoto and Hiroshima. It was raining on and off, so our walk was brisk. We saw a number of temples on the way, including one, Jyotenji (built 1242) on whose grounds soba noodles were said to have been introduced into Japan. The founder of another nearby temple, Shofukuji is said to be the one who first brought tea to Japan after studying Zen in China.
The wooden Buddha at Tocho-ji (the oldest Buddhist temple of the Shingon sect in Japan, dedicated to the memory of Kobadaishi) was awe-inspring, filling the entire room. It is surrounded by smaller and smaller figures all around behind it, forming an exquisite, carved background. In front, there is an altar, big flowers, candles, etc. The rest of the grounds of the temple are worth a look as well.
Walking up a hunger, we stopped at Hakata-ya for some of those famous noodles. The broth is made from pork bones, and it’s garlicky and rich. We opted for the most basic, with a piece of pork and negi (Japanese scallions). They were delicious, and at ¥290 a bowl, a true bargain.
