Saigon Street Scene
The tourist strip of Pham Ngu Lao was our first introduction to Saigon (renamed Ho Chi Minh City after the fall/liberation of Saigon in 1975). Just off the bus from Phnom Penh, we checked into one of the multitude of hotels, down an alley off the main road. It was a family place, with the day to day management handled by sisters and cousins, with Mom and Dad checking in from time to time. Our room had a tiny balcony looking out over the rooftops of the rest of the alley, clothes hung out to dry, plants and birdcages keeping company. We knowingly overpaid a bit for our first meal out, but were too tired for hardcore hunting. After settling in, over the next few days, we discovered the joys of Saigon street food: crispy baguettes, pho (noodle soup), strong coffee sweetened with condensed milk, and all sorts of things off the grill or out of the fryer.
The War Remnants Museum gave a different perspective than we in the US usually see of what in Vietnam is called the “American War.” It specializes in “research, collecting, preserving and exhibiting three remnant proofs of Vietnam War crimes and their consequences.” The first floor is filled with photos, newspaper articles, posters and banners from citizens of countries all over the world (including the US) who supported Vietnam’s resistance and were against US involvement.
Tank at Reunification Palace
There are several areas dedicated to chemical/biological warfare. Displays with some very graphic photos and shocking statistics explain how the chemical Agent Orange was used during the war, its horrible effects on the land, food and water sources and people at the time, and how the lives of subsequent generations were destroyed as well as many the children of those exposed, if they lived, who were born with birth defects and disabilities.
Another section, called “Requiem” is a photo exhibit accompanied by stories by journalists (134 from 11 nationalities) who witnessed the war but did not live through it. It was eerie to see some of the last photos on a roll from a camera recovered from someone who didn’t live to see them developed.
It’s very clear throughout the museum whose side of the story is being told, but there is no denying the devastation. The overlying message of the museum is one of peace, a desire tpo educate present and future generations, and hope that such tragedy doesn’t happen again.
Nearby, Independence (now Reunification) Palace was the site where tanks broke through the gates and “liberated” Saigon in 1975. Here, what we know as the “Fall of Saigon” is called the “Liberation of Saigon.” There are a couple of replica tanks on the grounds, and much of the building’s 60s decor is still intact.
One day we braved the local bus and wandered around the Cholon area, home to Saigon’s Chinatown. There are a couple of interesting, old temples, while the modern street scenes provide enough of interest to keep any people watcher happy. Just crossing the streets in HCMC is an adventure in itself. It takes some courage and some getting used to, but if you take it slow and steady, and don’t make any sudden movements, you get the hang of it in no time.
Temple in Cholon area
The Cu Chi Tunnels are located an hour or so northwest of HCMC. The guide for our group had worked for the US Navy during the war, spent 5 years in a re-education camp after the war, and now works as a guide. He told of his respect for the ingenuity and determination of the people who fought to keep the zone protected no matter what. They built the over 200 km of tunnels, spending much of their time underground, safe from US bombing and the Agent Orange that left above-ground barren and unable to bear crops. Most areas of tunnels had three levels. Due to lack of air flow, people lived mostly on the first level, with bamboo air tubes up to the surface.
Cu Chi Tunnels
Cooking was a delicate matter, as smoke would give away their position. A system of chambers was used to move the smoke far from its source before letting it vent at the surface, throwing the enemy off. We saw some of the bobby traps and escape routes before descending for a tight, hunched-over walk through one section of tunnels. Not everyone was able to make it, either due to fear in the confined space or physical inability to fit, but those who did emerged in a hospital bunker. All in all it was an interesting tour.
23 September Park
Other highlights of a walk around town were Notre Dame Cathedral and across the street the Main Post Office. One highlight of our stay in Saigon was sitting and watching people play badminton, shuttlecock and do aerobics or tai chi in the early evening in 23 September Park. University students gather to practice English, and we discussed everything from family to why North Korea doesn’t invite tourism. It was another great opportunity to get a real perspective on how young Vietnamese see the world around them and where they might fit in.
