There will be no excuses for this long-overdue post after our arrival in Seoul. It’s been almost a week, and we’re getting pretty settled in. Neither of us knew much about South Korea other than the most basic historical facts. I had a semester of Korean culture/anthropology, but it’s been a while since reading Shamans, Housewives, and Other Restless Spirits in college!
Having just left Japan, it was natural to start making comparisons, but one thing was immediately clear: we were not in Japan anymore. This fact isn’t negative or positive, but the two are totally different in terms of atmosphere, attitude and, of course, history. Seoul today is very high energy and very fast paced. People are on the move in many ways. It seems the country is trying hard to get ahead, to compete, and to make a unique name for itself on the international stage.
The city is filled with bright lights and big buildings/big business, theaters, galleries and brand names but it’s alleys are teeming with the rough and tumble market atmosphere that reminds us of a few places in South America. You can find anything and everything your heart desires here somewhere. There are multitudes of well-kept parks and green spaces throughout the city, offering urbanites a respite from their busy days. There is plenty of seating, and spots for people to take a break, read a book (or more likely play on their cellphone) or grab lunch or have a quick rendezvous.
Food and merchandise are ever-present, from high end Korean grilled meat or raw fish restaurants to international chains to small cafés to streetside stalls with skewers of squid or Korean sausage, ricecakes. Turkish ice cream seems to be quite popular, and there are lots of places catering to the large number of Japanese tourists with familiar dishes to make them feel at home.
We spent a couple of days power walking between palaces, parks and markets, trying to fit in the sights we were most interested in. Korean palaces are beautiful! The colors (dancheong) of these Joseon period palaces are amazing, and while the architecture is said to reflect the restraint and propriety of Confucian ideals, the layout according to geomantic theory puts each building in harmony with the natural surroundings in a most delightful way.
Deoksugung was originally built as a royal residence in the late 1400s, but was used as a temporary palace when all the other palaces in the city were destroyed by Japanese invasions in the late 1500s. We had a volunteer guide here, a knowledgeable high school girl who wore the sash of the city-run program and filled us in on some interesting facts as we walked around. She explained how the uneven stones leading up to the main palace hall where the king sat were designed that way for four reasons: if they were too smooth, the sun would reflect into the king’s eyes, to prevent to slick of a surface in the snow and ice of winter, to make the dignitaries attending the ceremonies show more resepect by making them move more slowly and deliberately, and to help with drainage (avoid puddles). The stone path in the middle of the courtyard (here and at other palaces) was built so that the one (king) walking in the middle would be highest, with a row on either side, and everyone else one step down. There were also some Joseon inventions on display, like a rain gauge, an arrow launcher and a water clock.
Gyeongbok Palace is the oldest, largest, and most impressive at first glance, occupying what was thought to be the most auspicious spot in the city. It could (did) take hours to walk around and explore. We learned about the kings’ paintings, showing the sun and moon, five peaks and other symbolic elements, and about other common design elements. There was a big ceremony taking place the day we were there, so we got to see lots of people dressed up in historical outfits. There is also regular changing of the guard here. The glorious main gate was finally restored in 2010! Outside the back gate is S. Korea’s President’s Blue House, with all the high level security you’d expect.
Changdeok Palace was sprawling as well, with buildings nestled into a hilly terrain and a back garden celebrated for its elegant design. The secret garden is filled with hidden hollows, pavilions and ponds waiting to be discovered. You can imagine a tiger or leopard strolling by, which apparently they did from time to time. There are amazing carvings, sculpture, and design details everywhere. Changgyeong Palace was more laid back, and we got to enjoy a great performance of traditional music and dance taking place on the grounds. One aspect of the Korean palaces that sets them apart is the use of ondol, floors heated from beneath with wood fires, with chimneys to carry smoke away from the dwelling areas. It looks like it would have been so cozy!
Comments?
D–clean shaven? T–pigtails. You guys look CUTE! I like the photo settings/color–black/white, i.e., the boys eating ice cream, flowers, sashes of the dancers. I am still amazed at the beauty of the food. We need to work on presentation! What’s the food (huge thing) on the end of the table in the market scene?
Interesting to me –the color on the buildings. How does that survive the weather? Also, men in the park–what’s the game they playing? And –where are the women?
Too many questions–I know. Glad to see your smiles! xo
We are totally still learning how to use the camera, and this seems to be a great testing ground.
That huge thing in the market is a kind of sweet. It’s heated up sugar mixed with nuts then cooled down and cut into pieces like a toffee. Yum!
And the men in the park we discussed via Skype but they are playing “go” (that’s the Japanese name). It is kind of like chess and checkers and othello combined. All about the strategy.