Avoiding Aggravation in Agra

Red Fort, Agra

Forewarned and a little nervous, we arrived in Agra by train after dark. Stories of scams, being overcharged and harassed abound: gem scams, fake marble souvenirs, aggressive vendors, unscrupulous drivers who just want to take you to shops, hotels or restaurants where they get a commission. As much as we wanted to see the Taj […]

Ancient City Hoi An

Designated a World Cultural Heritage town, Hoi An thrived in the 16th and 17th centuries as an international trading port.  Chinese, Dutch, Japanese and Indian traders arrived, and in many cases established businesses and residences here. The town has some of the best-preserved architecture (residences, pagodas, temples, communal and assembly houses, wells, wharf, etc.) in […]

If You Buy, You Buy from Me, Okay?

Cambodia is a country of both stunning beauty and deep sadness. The country’s violent, recent history has left ugly scars, but the resilience of Cambodia’s people is demonstrated every day as they work to put things back on track. There are many international NGOs and aid organizations, as well as locally-owned and operated projects. It’s […]

Jogja On My Mind

No trip to Indonesia would be complete without a visit to the island of Java: not just to sample the coffee but to see how a true Indonesian city feels. After a quick fifty minute flight from Bali, we arrived in the city of Yogyakarta, Jogjakarta or, locally, Jogja. Our best-laid plan for accommodation was […]

Coffee Shake Confluence

The heart of Laos: Luang Prabang. Royal capital and seat of government until the communists took over in 1975, Luang Prabang retains its romantic atmosphere, magnificent wats, French provincial architecture and surrounding natural beauty. Walking the streets of the old town you can understand why the entire city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You […]

Beaucoup Buddhas in the Longmen Grottoes

The Longmen Grottoes Along the banks of the Yi River, about 15 kilometers south of the city Luoyang, China are the Longmen Grottoes, also known as the Dragon Gate Caves. Along with the Yungang Grotto carvings at Datong and the Dunhuang/Mogao Grotto in Gansu Province, they are the pinnacle of Chinese Buddhist cave sculpture, some […]

Pingyao, China: What’s my name? When’s my birthday?

Pingyao Gate

Old Town Pingyao The old part of Pingyao, within the walls, is a very well-preserved ancient city. The population is nearly half a million but to Chinese standards it’s tiny . . . the smallest city we’ve visited here so far. Old Town is filled with streets and alleys to explore. Just strolling is activity […]

Xi’an

The city walls still stand around the heart of this city that was once the end of the Silk Road. It makes navigation that much easier: if you go too far in any direction you’ll eventually run into a wall. The city proper now extends far beyond, with new developments, housing and tourist centers popping […]

Great Wall Less Traveled

Great Wall Turret Ruin

What can be said about The Great Wall that hasn’t been covered a thousand times before? It’s one of those sights that everyone has at least heard of and thinks about with some sense of wonder. At different times, to different people, it has been protection from enemies, a means of trade, transportation and communication, […]

Hiroshima and Miyajima

Hiroshima Genbaku Dome

Hiroshima City Hiroshima was built on a delta, so rivers and canals crisscross the city at various points. Our hotel, Reino Inn, was at the western end of one of the main roads, in a convenient spot. It seemed to be a cross between a hotel and a hostel, with the good parts of each!  […]