The Society Islands

Tahiti and Moorea are part of the Society Islands, one of five archipelagos that make up French Polynesia, which sits about halfway between South America and Australia. Faa’a Airport is about a six hour flight from Honolulu, almost due south. It was here that the French painter Gaugin created some of his most famous works, and the area is most well-known for postcard pretty scenery, over-water bungalows, coconut and vanilla plantations, tropical blooms and relatively little tourism.

Tahiti Highlights

We spent just a few days on Tahiti before moving on to spend the rest of our time in the Society Islands on nearby Moorea. While in Tahiti, there was enough time to get in a bit of diving. Donny was unfortunately suffering from a chest infection he must have picked up during our stopover in Hawaii, so unfortunately he had to sit this one out. Since it was low season, I had the dive instructor all to myself, and we had a great dive with a half-dozen or so black-tipped reef sharks circling a bit too close for comfort.

Another day, we took a four-wheel jeep tour of the island’s lush, green interior, with countless waterfalls and misty peaks (think Jurassic Park). It was one of those standard tours, but being able to see the island from this perspective was an unforgettable experience.

Our favorite place to eat was by the port in Tahiti’s capital, Papaeete. There, a dozen or so modified Sprinter vans served up local cuisine, pasta, Chinese and fish at picnic tables with plastic chairs. The best dish we had was Poisson cru au lait du coco (raw white tuna, tomatoes, cucumber, onion, salt, and lime juice in fresh coconut milk). This was essentially a Tahitian spin on ceviche. The coconut milk put it over the top! With prices as high in Tahiti as we imagined they’d be in Europe, this spot was a great budget option.

Moorea

Heart-shaped Moorea is just 11 miles from Tahiti (30 minutes by ferry, or about a 7 minute flight…we tried both). If arriving by ferry, there are buses to take you either north or south, a fairly cheap budget option. Many describe Moorea as being similar to what Tahiti was 30 years ago. Hopefully it is able to maintain its laid-back vibe and peaceful beauty. The most striking geographical features are Cook’s and Opunohu bays (said to have been created with a thrash from the tail of the yellow lizard that gave Moorea its name). Mount Rotui is the tallest peak, at 899 meters (about 3000 feet), while Mouaputa mountain is called the “pierced” or “sacred” mountain, due to the hole in its peak. Locals call this peak the Shark’s tooth, and it’s the one most often seen in photos and postcards of Moorea. Moorea’s volcanic crater is surrounded by a coral reef, which creates a unique lagoon similar to that of Bora Bora. There seem to be an endless number of gradients of blue starting at the water’s edge and extending out to the deep, dark blue beyond the outer reef.

See the octopus?

Diving

We dove with Top Dive, one of the main dive shops on Moorea. They have shops in Tahiti as well, and can offer multi-island dive packages at a discount. They are located at InterContinental Moorea Resort and Spa and at the Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort & Spa, but can arrange transport from other hotels. Moorea’s reef is healthy, and inhabited by an abundance of fish and coral, with dolphins, whales, and turtles, among a multitude of other larger creatures outside the reef. Outside the reef there are opportunities for deeper dives, and the chance to see some bigger species like the Lemon shark, so famous in this area. The lagoon is a shallow dive, but visibility tends to be better generally, and it’s more often accessible even when the seas outside the reef are a little rougher.  From May to October Humpback Whales can be found in the waters around Moorea for mating and birthing. You can snorkel pretty much anywhere, and get an eyeful of colorful fish. The beach at the InterContinental was a great snorkel spot.

Cycling

One day we rented bikes (not the easiest task with our lack of French language skills, but accomplished) and cycled along the coastal road from where we were staying on the north coast, around one of the bays, and over to the west coast. The views along this road are simply amazing, and even the brief downpour we rode through was purely refreshing. We stopped along the way for fresh juices, spectacular looks at pristine white beaches kissed by aqua waves and spiky green peaks looking inland. From Belvedere Lookout, you get views of both Cook’s and Opunohu bays surrounded by mountain peaks. In front of the Intercontinental Hotel (one of those with the famous, over-water bungalows), we did some snorkeling. We must have spent a half an hour watching an octopus change colors as he stealthily moved from rock to rock. This was a really lucky sighting, as the octopus usually stays well hidden during the day, and where we were snorkeling was quite shallow!

Dock at Pension Motu Iti

Where We Stayed

We enjoyed a week enjoying the hospitality of our host, Auguste, and his family at Pension Motu Iti. Our private bungalow was three feet from the water’s edge, with views to die for. There was a dock to walk out on, with a sundeck at the end. The water is so clear you can just sit and watch the colorful fish swim by without ever getting in. Breakfast always included fresh pineapple, and the owners were happy to supply us with information and suggestions for getting around the island. The accommodation is basic, but the prices are very reasonable, well worth it. We’ve heard that they have added a dorm since we stayed there, as another budget option. We had no experience with that, as it wasn’t there when we visited.

Feeling Fruity!

When in Moorea, eating a ton of fruit is a must. Coconuts, mangoes, limes, papaya, oranges, grapefruit, and of course PINEAPPLES! Moorea is the pineapple-growing center of French Polynesia, and if it’s possible to OD on a fruit, we at least came close to doing just that.