This morning we head up the coast to 90-mile Beach it’s the place where, according to Maori legend, the spirits of the dead head to begin their journey to the afterlife. They slip down the Pohutukawa tree that is apparently still visible nearby. At Cape Reinga, the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean meet. You can see it. Past this tiny point of land with its lighthouse it seems like you can see forever. The earth’s curve is in plain view, and you feel like you’ve reached the end of it. During storms they say the waves can reach 30 feet/10m, but this day was peaceful and bright. We built up an appetite with a long walk along the cliffs. The famous Mangonui Fish Shop, further down the east coast, was the cure for our hunger. We shared absolutely the best fried oysters ever, as well as some darn good fish and chips.