Udaipur is known as the romantic City of Lakes. Throughout Rajasthan, people kept asking when we would visit this quaint, yet well-touristed spot. The city is as picturesque as promised, oriented around Lake Pichola. Bathing and clothes washing ghats are always in use, while a major temple, the City Palace, hotels and restaurants enjoy lovely views. The Aravalli Hills surround the city, which itself has noticeably more ups and downs than anywhere else we’ve been in India so far.

One interesting phenomenon unique to Udaipur is what we referred to as stealth rickshaws. Because the city is quite hilly, the rickshaw drivers like to save fuel by coasting down the many hills, this also applies to the many residents who get around by motorbike. While this is a logical practice it makes being a pedestrian a little more difficult. We are so used to hearing the motors and blaring horns of the rickshaws that this new species caught us by surprise on more than one occasion. We escaped unscathed yet more aware of the surrounding traffic pattern.

Lake Pichola sits in the middle of the city, and upon it two islands, Jagniwas, with the Lake Palace, and Jagmandir. The Lake Palace is now a luxury hotel, open only to its guests. The Lake Palace and Monsoon Palace (outside the city, high on hill) were both used in the James Bond movie, Octopussy.

Ladies pound their laundry clean at one of the dhobi (laundry) ghats.

The City Palace was very impressive, and having seen quite a few at this point, that’s saying something! Built  in 1559, the architecture combines Rajasthani and Mughal as well as Medieval, European and Chinese styles. 76 generations of rajputs made contributions to the complex over the years.  One whole section is devoted to portraits (including some amazing moustaches) and the complex family tree. The massive, triple-arched Tripolia gate makes for a grand entrance. Inside, is a green space with fountains and some spots to sit. To one side is what’s left of an area used for elephant fights, and nearby a tiger-catching cage is on display. Surrounding the courtyard are the interconnected buildings built by various maharanas, each to his own taste, but maintaining a sense of continuity. We especially enjoyed the panoramic views of the lake and sprawling city from some of the cupolas and towers at the top. A number of sections feature wonderful tilework, always lavishly colorful and sparkling with mirrors. The Mor Chowk has elaborate peacocks of mirrored tiles in blue, red and green, outside a room-sized mural of a mustached sun.

These young ladies REALLY wanted a photo on their field trip to the City Palace.

We stayed in a great family-run guesthouse at the top of a hill in a residential neighborhood. Our walk down to the city center was always eventful, passing curious kids, dogs, cows and shopkeepers. Two days we saw sari-clad women walking behind groups of small donkeys carrying saddlebags filled with sand for what may have been a construction project.

We could see wedding fireworks from the second floor roof. The cooler winter months seem to be the wedding season. We aren’t sure if it’s purely because of the mild temperatures or if there is another reason. Nonetheless, we’ve had an opportunity to see tradition wedding processions or baraats in a few cities. Udaipur was no different. In order to catch up to one just listen for the music. The group is headed by a colorful cart complete with multiple loud speakers broadcasting synthesized tunes. Next, a band playing drums and brass instruments followed by the groom riding a highly decorated white horse. Often within the group are women of the grooms family dancing during which men give offerings of cash, perhaps for their effort.

Elsewhere in the city, the Bagore-ki Haveli is undergoing continued restoration, but we enjoyed walking through the period rooms that make up this museum and seeing all the items used for daily life, along with explanations of how. One display was entirely of turbans, including one giant one, demonstrating designs from different regions. Another room has everything a lady used to dress and make herself beautiful. Another was filled with puppets, while another had old games. One was called Snakes and Ladders, and looked just like our more familiar Chutes and Ladders!

Trying on turbans at the haveli museum.

Just north of the guesthouse, the Muslim neighborhood was decorated for the culmination of the celebration of Mohammed’s birthday. Chanting filled the air last two nights we were there, and everyone was in good spirits. This part of town sees few tourists, and it was great to get away from the commercialized center of the city. A long walk eventually led us to Saheliyon-ki-Bari, originally constructed just for the 48 ladies in waiting who were part of a certain princess’s dowry. It was the perfect spot for an afternoon of reading under a palm tree in the sunshine.

In they south of the city, Sajjan Niwas is a park popular with local families and couples. People dressed in their finest outfits have photos taken by roving semi-pros. The park’s flower garden makes a lovely background, and somehow it gets printed out in a hidden location to take home as a memento of the visit. People watching was number one on our agenda here, while kids were drawn to the playground and a small zoo with some rather sad looking animals.

Flowers at the Ladies' Garden

We made our exit sharing a car with two girls from Portugal we met at the guesthouse. In doing so, we were able to make a day trip on the way to Jodhpur to visit Kumbalgarh, one of Rajasthan’s most important forts, as well as an amazing Jain temple at Ranakpur. Situated high in the hills, the fort’s claim to fame is having been taken only once in its history, even then for only two days! Further down the road, the Jain temple is a breathtaking white marble structure featuring 1444 unique columns.

Photos from Udaipur can be viewed HERE. Photos from Kumbalgarh Fort and the Jain Temple are here as well.