Bangkok Longtail Boat

Bangkok was a surprise. Maybe it has do do with the neighborhood we stayed in, or the activities we chose, but we didn’t find the chaos or danger we’d heard so much about. Yes, the tuk tuks whiz up and down, weaving precariously through heavy traffic. Yes there are scams to watch out for. Unscrupulous tour operators. A pretty obnoxious backpacker scene on Khao San Road. And, of course many of the same sad realities of all big urban centers. But once you step away from the glitzy malls, the Grand Palace, the floating market and Siam Ocean World, (not that these sights aren’t worth a visit) you can easily spot another side of Bangkok.  Every street has a theme, an atmosphere of its own. There are Wats and Stupas everywhere, glittering gold, green and red, filled with relics, statuary and flowers. Monks and novices sweep the grounds in the morning, and if you’re up early enough you can hear the call to prayer. On the Chao Papaya, river travel is cheap, easy, and efficiently avoids Bangkok traffic. Hop on a river taxi at any point on the river, and wherever you disembark there will be something fun to explore. Just cruising along the river on your way is entertainment in itself, with glimpses of longtail boats, tugs and barges, kids splashing around by the shore and students going to and from school.

Wat Traimit

In addition to the famous Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) and Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha), there are smaller, more intimate temples that make up the fabric of the capital city, its heart and soul. Some are mosaics of colored glass, some are not as bright and shiny, but hold a high place in Buddhist cultural tradition. One of our favorites featured planks over the water, reflecting sky and architecture around each corner.

Flower Market

The flower market (Pak Khlong Talat) was a fantastic walk, not far from the Grand Palace, but a world away in feel. We arrived here by river, at Memorial Bridge Pier. Flowers are brought in from neighboring provinces, and sold 24 hours a day, though the main activity is in the early morning. People buy to stock their florist shops, or individuals purchase beautiful arrangements for making offerings at temples or use at home. After the flower section, the market turns to produce, with fresh fruit, vegetables and snacks. Wat Ratburana temple is at the south end of the market.

Reclining Budda

Then there’s the food. From food carts on the street to five-star upscale dining, Bangkok has got it all. While you can find all the Western Thai favorites, like Pad Thai and Red, Green or Yellow Curries, there is a true culinary adventure waiting as well. Like other Asian nations, no parts are wasted when it comes to local cuisine. Chicken feet, pork innards, insects, name it and you can eat it here.  Desserts are sweet and sticky. Tom Yum Gong is a good benchmark. You can find this succulent soup featuring lemongrass, chilli, galangal, lime leaves, lime juice, shallot and fish sauce everywhere. The best ones have a powerful, herbal kick. Som Tum (papaya salad) is also a must. Stir-fried morning glory is a dish found through Asia, but we’ve had some especially good ones in Thailand. Street food is a step above most. It feels and looks cleaner than many places we’ve been, and not a bellyache so far. Grilled meats are especially popular, along with noodle soups and all kinds of tea, fruit juice and coffee drinks.

Bangkok is whatever you want it to be. Enjoy it. We did.

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