Seoraksan National Park
The mountains had been calling, and it was time for a hike. Designated a Biosphere Protection site by Unesco, the area of Seoraksan National Park is only about 20 minutes away from Sokcho by bus. It is filled with trails leading through forests, past waterfalls, jagged peaks, massive boulders, temples, a fortress, and all kinds […]
Naksan Temple
The sometimes lush and green, sometimes bare and craggy Taebek Mountains meet the pounding Eastern Sea in South Korea’s northeastern Gangwon Province. To the north is North Korea, to which originally part of the region originally belonged. (Kim Il Sung’s former villa is nearby). Seoul is a few hours southwest by bus, and everything east […]
Daejeon and Gongju
The central area of Korea is rugged mountains interspersed with rice paddies and fields. We stayed in a larger city, known for being a center for science as well as a transporation hub. It was rainy, so we had a relaxing couple days of museums and eating. In the nearby town of Gongju we visited […]
Jeju Island: Bali in Korea?
Jeju Island Not sure if we can agree with the title “Bali of Korea,” but Jeju is indeed a pretty island. Volcanic and subtropical, Jeju is filled with natural beauty unmarred by the bountiful tourist attractions crawling with busloads of holidaymakers. It’s also the “honeymoon island” popular with couples who have the opportunity to visit […]
Gyeongju
Gyeongju is less than a couple of hours from Busan, but its atmosphere feels much further removed. There is more of a small-town feel, not rural, but a laid-back sort of vibe. We had taken the slow train, and it wasn’t a long walk to the Nahbi Guest House. This hostel is very well-run, clean […]
Dynamic Busan
As their campaign promises, the city of Busan is indeed dynamic, with a free WiFi program, helpful volunteers in the stations, friendly citizens, shopping, dining (fine and otherwise), beaches, mountains, temples and a casino. Haeundae Beach and Gwangalli Beach are just a few subway stops away from one another, but have very different atmospheres. Haeundae […]
Hwaseong Fortress and Suwon
Suwon, which markets itself as the happy city of filial piety, is an easy day trip from Seoul. You can get all the way there on the Seoul metro subway if you ride line #1 almost to the end. It’s far enough to feel like you’re out of the city, but Suwon itself is still […]
Temples, Towers and Townspeople
Walking the streets of Seoul each day, we found the major tourist spots as well as some hidden treasures: small parks, alley restaurants, just the adventure it should be. Seoul really lends itself to this kind of wandering, and we found it all too easy to lose track of time. Beneath Gwanghwamun Square is a […]
Seoul
There will be no excuses for this long-overdue post after our arrival in Seoul. It’s been almost a week, and we’re getting pretty settled in. Neither of us knew much about South Korea other than the most basic historical facts. I had a semester of Korean culture/anthropology, but it’s been a while since reading Shamans, […]
Not the Last Goodbye
I’m posting from Seoul, and Japan seems a world away. Our last few days were a whirlwind of goodbyes and last-minute plans. We walked Yokohama in the mist, soaking in the ramen museum at Shin-Yokohama (regional ramen dishes in a 1958 recreated old-time setting) and spending the night in Kannai. A final visit with the […]