Hallacas and Cuba Libres!

Caracas doesn´t seem to have changed too much since last time we were here.  We´ve been laying kind of low, recuperating and relaxing at home.  The family I have stayed with since my first visit to Venezuela in 2001 has welcomed us with open arms (including airport pickup by my lovely pesudo-cousin), and we´ve been […]

Santiago Centro: Heart of Chile’s Capital

View from Cerro Santa Lucia

The architecture of Santiago is striking, and we enjoyed just strolling around the different neighborhoods, whether we knew what we were looking for or not. You can find everything from 19th century neoclassical at the center, mixed in with neo-gothic, art deco, modern, futuristic and other styles in different areas. The center of the city, is the […]

Santiago: Cerro Santa Lucia

Cerro Santa Lucia

Santiago Sneak Peek: Cerro Santa Lucia After our time in Patagonia, we’re back in an urban jungle, population over 6 million!  Still a bit sleepy from our overnight travel, we spent our first day in Santiago just wandering around.  The views from atop Cerro Santa Lucia were grand, and we could just make out the […]

Pucón

Top of Villaricca, Pucon, Chile

In Pucon we had definitely arrived in another tourist-centric town, but a lovely one.  Its lakeside setting with black sand beach and the backdrop of Villarrica Volcano is gorgeous, and there are tons of outdoor activities and adventures, relaxing thermal pools nearby and a heady mix of restaurants and bars for after a long day […]

To Market To Market

The market(feria fluvial) in Valdivia was small but hectic.  We wandered around watching the fishmongers and vegetable/fruit vendors selling their piles and piles for fresh stuff.  The fish and shellfish were all lined up on the side of the market that faces the river, and the enormous sea lions that inhabit the river lounged around in […]

Viva Valdivia

Our first real stop in Chile was the town of Valdivia.  It´s unfortunate distinction in recent years was an industrial accident that killed 5000 black-necked swans, but these days it seems to have cleaned up that act, and it turned out to be a great place to spend a few days. Valdivia is an old […]

Circuito Chico

Mountian bikes took us around the ¨small circuit¨ that winds around Lakes Nahuel Huapi, Perito Moreno and beyond.  It was kind of a tough ride, since we hadn´t been biking since Tahiti.  The uphill climbs were rewarded by long coasts downhill, though, and we were left with a sense of accomplishment at the end.  There […]

Lake Gutierrez

Saturday at the Lake. Everyone was there. Some brave souls took a dip in the icy late spring water. We shared a pizza and beer at a little cafe, and wished we were staying this far out from the city where it was so quite and peaceful. Later in the day we hiked to the […]

Bariloche

Even though we´ve been challenged by administrative headaches, an overcrowded hostel of rude international youths, and only 2 bathrooms for at least 40 people, we can´t help but like Bariloche. The tourist crowd is pretty easily left behind and we escaped each day to a new, gorgeous spot. The city is right on a lake, […]

A long ride

Route 40 from El Calafate, in southern Patagonia, to Bariloche in the Lakes District is still known to be an adventurous route. It passes through mountains and valleys, national parks and reserves, small towns, farms and open plains. The journey took two days. The first day was almost entirely on gravelly unpaved road. After 14 […]